How to Fix Nail Pops Permanently (Two-Screw Method)

Nail pops are the bane of drywall finishers — those little bumps that show up six months after you finish the wall, right where a screw or nail used to sit flush. They're caused by lumber shrinkage, settling, or — most often — the wrong fastener installed the wrong way. Here's how to fix them so they don't come back.

What causes a nail pop?

The drywall isn't moving — the framing behind it is. As lumber dries and the house settles, the stud pulls back from the drywall fastener. The fastener stays put, but the wood shrinks past it, leaving the head protruding into the joint compound. Eventually that protrusion cracks the compound and "pops" out.

Other causes:

• Nails instead of screws — nails have less grip and pop faster
• Under-driven fasteners (head sitting proud of the paper)
• Over-driven fasteners (paper broken, no holding power)
• Drywall not pressed tight against the stud during install
• Vibration — common near doors, stairs, and high-traffic walls

The wrong way to fix a nail pop

The most common DIY mistake is hammering the offending nail back in and slapping mud over it. This doesn't work because the fastener has lost grip — the wood behind it has shrunk. Six months later, the nail pops again.

The second mistake is just adding a screw next to the old nail without dealing with the protrusion. The original fastener is still going to push out and crack your patch.

The two-screw method (contractor standard)

This is the fix that stays fixed. Here's the step-by-step:

Step 1: Drive two screws flanking the pop

Drive a drywall screw 2" above the nail pop, and another 2" below it. Use a 1-5/8" coarse-thread drywall screw. Set each one so the head dimples the paper slightly — just below the surface, without breaking the paper.

These two screws anchor the drywall tight to the stud, pulling the panel back against the framing.

Step 2: Deal with the original fastener

With the panel now secured, the original fastener no longer has structural duty. Two options:

• If it's a nail: Drive it deeper with a nail set so the head sits at least 1/8" below the surface. Don't try to pull it — you'll tear the paper.
• If it's a screw: Drive it deeper until the head is below the surface. If it spins without biting, the threads are stripped — move it out and put your anchor screws slightly closer to the pop.

Step 3: Fill with joint compound

Apply a thin coat of all-purpose or lightweight joint compound over all three dimples (two new screws + original fastener). Feather the edges out 4–6" on each side.

Let it dry completely (at least 4 hours, overnight is better). Apply a second coat if needed. Lightly sand with 120-grit. Prime and paint.

If the pop is on the ceiling

Ceiling nail pops are the same fix, but you need to be sure your screws are hitting the joist. Use a stud finder first — if your anchoring screws miss the joist, the repair won't hold. Ceilings also tend to have more nail pops because the drywall is more likely to have been installed loose (gravity works against you during install).

How many pops is too many?

A few isolated pops in a new house (under 5 years old) are normal as the framing dries. More than a dozen in a single room, or pops that keep coming back after fixing, can indicate:

• Excessive moisture or humidity (causing ongoing wood movement)
• Structural settling beyond normal
• Original installation problems (drywall hung with too few fasteners)

If you're seeing widespread popping that recurs, investigate the source before patching.

Preventing future pops during installation

• Use screws, not nails — screws have mechanical grip that nails lack
• Use coarse-thread screws for wood framing (fine-thread is for metal studs)
• Space fasteners every 12" in the field, 8" on edges
• Press the panel tight against the stud while driving — have a helper or use a drywall lifter
• Don't overdrive — a broken paper face means the fastener has lost holding power

Tools for the job

You need: a screw gun or drill with a drywall bit, a box of 1-5/8" coarse-thread drywall screws, a nail set (if original fastener is a nail), all-purpose joint compound, a 6" knife, and 120-grit sandpaper.

Plonic carries drywall screws, compound, and finishing knives in the drywall tools section.

The bottom line

The two-screw method works because it addresses the actual problem — the drywall is no longer held tight to the framing. Secure the panel first, deal with the old fastener second, then patch. Done right, it won't pop again.